Antique Vintage Nouveau 14k Rose Gold Carved Chalcedony Cameo Band Ring Sz 4.75

Description

We have similar Cameo and Art Nouveau items, which would pair nicely with this piece
, up for auction this week. To view in separate listings, please visit our store and search "Cameo" or "Nouveau" under our auction items.
Listing description by: Dayna M.
The Piece
Auction Estimate:
,000 - ,000
Age Circa:
Art Nouveau C. 1890 - 1910
Markings:
"MB" on inside of band
, tested, and guaranteed
Country of Origin:
Unknown
Brand:
Unknown
Gram Weight:
5.2 grams
Metal Type:
14k rose gold
Metal Melt Value:
7.00 (value all-inclusive weight)
Material:
--
Main Stone:
Chalcedony
Main Stone Measurements/Color:
Length:
23.05
mm
Width:
17.10 mm
Depth:
2.85 mm
Color:
semi-translucent orange and opaque white hues
Accent Stone:
--
Accent Stone Measurements/Color:
--
Stone Treatment:
The stone(s) appear to be untreated, but we are not certified gemologists. Stone(s) have been tested and guaranteed using a professional Presidium Duo refractive, heat, and hardness tester.
Stone Cuts:
Carved and polished cameo
Ring Size:
4.75
Sizable by your local jeweler:
Yes
Item Measurements:
Top of ring:
0.96" long, 0.79" wide
When worn
: the face of the ring rises 0.20" off the finger when worn
Notable Features:
This ring was handmade during the Art Nouveau era. Composed of 14k rose gold, the ring features a beautiful cameo carved from a chalcedony stone. Cameos were very fashionable during this time period, having seen a surge in popularity following the Etruscan Revival movement. Part of the larger Archaeological Revival movement, the Etruscan Revival began following the discovery of ancient Etruscan sites outside of Rome in the early 1800s. Amongst the discoveries made at these sites were beautiful pieces of jewelry, usually made out of high purity gold and featuring carved stones.
Cameos and Etruscan Revival jewelry were especially popular with Grand Tour travelers. The Grand Tour was the traditional vacation taken by aristocrats and the wealthy during the Art Nouveau era. A Grand Tour was an opportunity for travelers to learn more about the art, cultures, and histories, of other countries. To remember their trips, travelers would often purchase jewelry as souvenirs, Etruscan Revival jewelry a fashionable choice for visitors to the Mediterranean.
The cameo in this ring depicts an elegant woman dressed in 17th-century style. The woman is shown in profile, gazing to the left, with her pair piled into an elaborate, curled updo tired together with a floral band. The shoulders of her beautiful dress are visible, as well as the dress's standing collar. This cameo was entirely carved from a chalcedony stone, with the high relief image of the woman featuring a semi-translucent white hue resting on deep orange background. The chalcedony rests securely in a 14k rose gold bezel setting. The vibrant hue of the rose gold is a lovely contrast to the deeper orange hues of the chalcedony.
Complete with a smooth, polished rose gold band for a comfortable fit when worn. A classic example of Etruscan Revival jewelry bought while on a Grand Tour, this ring would make a valuable addition to any antique jewelry collection. Don't miss your chance to preserve this piece of cultural history.
Damage:
Age appropriate wear. There is some build up behind the stone which can be clean up using a gentle soap.
*This listing is for the item only. All display boxes and/or photography props do not come with your purchase.*
The History
The Art Nouveau era, 1890-1910, was also called "La Belle Epoque" in French, which translates to "A Beautiful Time.”  This was very true due to the gorgeous designs that came out of this period.  This era focused on women, and the beauty of nature and the pieces were often large. Enamel was a standard material used in Art Nouveau jewelry as the period was more about the importance of the design over the materials used to create it. The Art Nouveau period happened before the start of the first World War, when mass manufacturing took over the production of many products, including some jewelry.
Etruscan revival jewelry swept into popularity in the early 1800s with the Victorian era discovery of Etruscan tombs just outside of Rome in Italy. These archaeological digs unearthed beautiful golden jewelry that had been meticulously ornamented with tiny gold beads, featuring flowing geometric shapes, celestial motifs, and a plethora of sacred and Greco-Roman mythological figures. The techniques of repoussé, filigree, and granulation are all attributed to the Etruscans. Jewelers all over the world avidly began to attempt to replicate these ancient techniques, changing the way fine jewelry was made for many years.
The Grand Tour was a popular vacation during the Georgian and Victorian eras. This vacation was generally between two and four years long, and it allowed wealthy people the opportunity to study different cultures, architecture, and art. During this vacation, travelers would pick up pieces of jewelry, which allowed the introduction of techniques and styles such as cameos, mosaics, and pietra dura to be introduced into popular jewelry styles.
A cameo is an image that has been carved in raised relief by cutting away the background of different materials to create a contrast in height and color. The earliest examples of cameos date back to the 3rd century BC. In antiquity, this was achieved by carving into a single piece of banded agate to reveal the layers of colors, but now it is much more common that cameos are made of two different materials. The most common form of fine jewelry cameo is created by layering a carved white shell on top of a stone of contrasting color with a flat plane. Cameos usually depict a beautiful or famous person in profile, or a mythological figure. The Romans were true artisans when it came to creating these pieces, so there are many Roman cultural influences found in cameos, even to this day. These are true miniature art works.
Chalcedony is a compact and microcrystalline form of quartz. It occurs in many different forms, colors, and patterns, and many varieties have been used as gemstones since antiquity. Several semi-precious gemstones are types of chalcedony such as agate, aventurine, carnelian, and onyx. Chalcedony is coveted for being a healing stone with mineral properties that promote unity and good will.
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